Nut job

My SCA220 after being given some due attention. I just love this guitar, it sits between the S & SZ Series in terms of design. The SCA is not to be confused with the SC, the difference being the former's thicker body that allows the input jack to be located at the edge of the body.

This was the ongoing issue with this guitar; there's corrosion going on at the G, B & E nut string slots. The G slot manifested the worst corrosion & it persisted even after a good cleaning up / sanding down.

Decided the old nut must go, I don't see the point of dealing with this issue repeatedly. The nut is expendable & quality replacements are available at the shops. Before the nut was knocked out of place, both the fretboard & headstock surfaces were taped up. At the headstock side, a slit was made (using penknife) between the nut & headstock so that, when the nut is knocked out with a hammer, it won't dislodge the headstock finish.

The replacement nut is a TUSQ, for an Ibanez neck, the correct length measurement is 43mm. Do inform the shops you need an Ibanez version to prevent them from selling you the Gibson version which is slightly shorter. Also, a fresh unit requires some sanding down, do keep this in mind.

Finally, a set of Dunlop 9.5s because the SCA sports a shorter scale length compared to a regular S-Series.

SCA_SEW

 ... and the weekend is here. Had been Ibanez-ing the entire week with these two:

SCA220. After missing out on the S-Classic (SC), this SCA220 was the consolation. Inadvertently, this prepped me up to embrace the SZs which were introduced subsequently. The difference? Unlike the SC, the SCA features a flat back with a curved body top. The SC replicated the S-Series body strictly & had the input jack access on the body top. Pickups here are Seymour Duncan 59 & Custom 5 combo.

SEW761. One of my fav S-Series but it's breaking down right under my nose. The fretboard is coming off the neck & I didn't see this happening because it's on the treble side which I don't look at while playing. I only realized something was wrong when fret buzz began to be heard. It will be an expensive endeavour to get this fixed; removing the entire fretboard & re-glueing everything once more. It might mean the removal of the frets to get the job done. Re-fretting + re-glueing would cost me nearly the price of this guitar to begin with so it's a no go. I've re-dressed the frets of the affected area in the mean time. So far, so good.